Joe Morishige - Wave Journal
The day I tossed a perfect board into the rocks, IDIOT!
I got in at the lane around 5 with the swell still pulsing solid at 10ft +. I caught a few decent waves and came out at the statue ready for my first run around. There was a queue of 4 or 5 guys trying to figure out when to jump off and taking there time. I decided to toss my board in and it was a bad call. Rushing I tossed my board in right in front of a crashing wave. I can see the wave etched so clearly in my mind. Mortified I jumped in after her, she was so good to me, and then I tossed her to her death! I jumped in and scrambled to her, amazingly no more waves came as I sat perilously with no board in the toilet bowl. I got to her, she was in one piece! Looking as good as new, but this reunion was a farce. Little did I know I had tossed her into a broken back. The foot pad had ripped off in the center and a wax scratch was all I saw. But after my first wave the buckle set in and she was soon in two.
Patience, patience, patience... Is what I need to learn. Don't go throwing my baby away in a hurry. It will take awhile for me to forgive myself from this. I still am in shock and confused and am reaching to see the good. Maybe that's my problem, there is no good here, just sadness and stupidity. Learning the hard way as usual.